Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Monaco, Jul 21, 2021
LOT 346
Rolex for Chaumet
Ref. 1680, self-winding, centre-seconds; "Submariner"; stainless steel
Ref. 1680, self-winding, centre-seconds; "Submariner"; stainless steel
EUR 20,000 - 40,000
USD 23,800 - 47,500 / HKD 186,000 - 370,000
Sold: EUR 22,100
Fine and extremely rare, stainless steel, self-winding, tonneau-shaped, diver’s wristwatch, black colour dial “Mark 1”, with centre-seconds and date; case-back engraved “2176 RE”
| Grading System | |
|---|---|
Grade: AA |
Very good |
Case: 2-8 |
Very good Slightly scratched |
Movement: 2* |
Very good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense |
Dial: 2-01 |
Very good HANDS Original |
Brand Rolex, Geneva
Model "Submariner"; retailed by Chaumet, Paris
Reference 1680
Year 1977
Movement No. D 246 872
Case No. 5 097 993
Bracelet stainless steel Rolex “Oyster” bracelet with deployant clasp (Ref. 93150; end-links 580)
Caliber 1570
Dimensions 40 mm
Signature dial, case and movement
Accessories Chaumet certificate of authenticity
Notes
The reference 1680 is the most emblematic vintage Submariner with date, produced from 1969 to 1978. This piece is therefore a late model, since it was sold on January 10th 1978. Its matt dial with white writing, is fitted with this reference starting 1974. Moreover, it is said to be "feet first", since the indication of the depth of the feet precedes the meters. However the numbers engraved on the caseback “21476 RE” turns this beautiful diver wristwatch into a grail. Indeed theses numbers indicate the watch was retailed by Chaumet as evidenced in the authentication certificate sent by the Chaumet Heritage department.
In 1970 Jacques et Pierre Chaumet, with the help of François Bodet, decided to enter the luxury watch market by taking over the Breguet brand for instance until 1987, when it was bought by the finance company Investcorp. The Chaumet shop on Place Vendôme was partially dedicated to watches. It was a retailer for numerous horological brand such as Patek Philippe, Breguet and … Rolex. It is exceptionally rare to find such a piece with the Chaumet inventory numbers.
We would like to thank the Chaumet Heritage department for their valuable help in our research.
In 1970 Jacques et Pierre Chaumet, with the help of François Bodet, decided to enter the luxury watch market by taking over the Breguet brand for instance until 1987, when it was bought by the finance company Investcorp. The Chaumet shop on Place Vendôme was partially dedicated to watches. It was a retailer for numerous horological brand such as Patek Philippe, Breguet and … Rolex. It is exceptionally rare to find such a piece with the Chaumet inventory numbers.
We would like to thank the Chaumet Heritage department for their valuable help in our research.