Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Jul 21, 2021

LOT 346

Rolex for Chaumet
Ref. 1680, self-winding, centre-seconds; "Submariner"; stainless steel

EUR 20,000 - 40,000

USD 23,800 - 47,500 / HKD 186,000 - 370,000

Sold: EUR 22,100

Fine and extremely rare, stainless steel, self-winding, tonneau-shaped, diver’s wristwatch, black colour dial “Mark 1”, with centre-seconds and date; case-back engraved “2176 RE”

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Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good

Case: 2-8

Very good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2-01

Very good

HANDS Original

Brand Rolex, Geneva

Model "Submariner"; retailed by Chaumet, Paris

Reference 1680

Year 1977

Movement No. D 246 872

Case No. 5 097 993

Bracelet stainless steel Rolex “Oyster” bracelet with deployant clasp (Ref. 93150; end-links 580)

Caliber 1570

Dimensions 40 mm

Signature dial, case and movement

Accessories Chaumet certificate of authenticity


The reference 1680 is the most emblematic vintage Submariner with date, produced from 1969 to 1978. This piece is therefore a late model, since it was sold on January 10th 1978. Its matt dial with white writing, is fitted with this reference starting 1974. Moreover, it is said to be "feet first", since the indication of the depth of the feet precedes the meters. However the numbers engraved on the caseback “21476 RE” turns this beautiful diver wristwatch into a grail. Indeed theses numbers indicate the watch was retailed by Chaumet as evidenced in the authentication certificate sent by the Chaumet Heritage department. 

In 1970 Jacques et Pierre Chaumet, with the help of François Bodet, decided to enter the luxury watch market by taking over the Breguet brand for instance until 1987, when it was bought by the finance company Investcorp. The Chaumet shop on Place Vendôme was partially dedicated to watches. It was a retailer for numerous horological brand such as Patek Philippe, Breguet and … Rolex. It is exceptionally rare to find such a piece with the Chaumet inventory numbers. 

We would like to thank the Chaumet Heritage department for their valuable help in our research.