Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Dec 12, 2025

LOT 81

ROLEX, SWITZERLAND, REF. 1680, SUBMARINER RED "METER FIRST", STAINLESS STEEL

EUR 15,000 - 25,000

CHF 14,000 - 23,300 / HKD 136,000 - 226,000 / USD 17,400 - 29,000 / JPY 2,720,000 - 4,530,000

A very fine and rare, stainless steel, self winding Very fine and rare, stainless steel, black dial red Submariner


Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 2-8-17

Very good

Slightly scratched

Slightly spotted

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2-01

Very good

HANDS Original

Brand Rolex, Switzerland

Model Submariner red "meter first"

Reference 1680

Year circa 1969

Movement No. D359077

Case No. 2186282

Bracelet Rolex Oyster bracelet with Deployant clasp, length approx 175mm

Diameter 39mm

Caliber 1570

Signature case, dial and movement

Accessories Rolex box

Notes

The present Rolex Submariner reference 1680 represents an early and historically significant example of the very first Submariner Date ever produced by the manufacture. Launched at the end of the 1960s, the 1680 marked a decisive evolution in the Submariner lineage by integrating a date mechanism with cyclops magnifier, establishing a configuration that would remain central to the model’s identity for more than half a century.

This example features the desirable “Meter First” MK1 dial, characterized by the depth rating printed with meters preceding feet and closed 6, a configuration reserved only for the earliest production. The dial shows beautifully aged luminous material with a lightly diminished tritium presence around the five, six, seven and eight o’clock markers, consistent with natural aging of early tritium applications. The watch further retains its period-correct fat font bezel insert, highly prized among connoisseurs for its bold typography and rarity.

The caseback is stamped 1.69, perfectly matching the earliest production window of the 1680, and the watch is fitted with an original 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet, underscoring its outstanding period accuracy. Accompanied by its box, this early Submariner Date offers a remarkable level of completeness and authenticity.

As one of the very first Submariner Date watches ever produced, the present Meter First MK1 holds a particularly important place in the historical development of Rolex’s most iconic diving watch. Its combination of early features, period-correct components makes it a highly desirable example for the collector seeking an historically significant cornerstone of the Submariner family.

Provenance

Property of an Italian Collector