Important Collectors’ Wristwatches, P...

Geneva, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Du Rhône, May 13, 2007

LOT 213

"Pietra Dura Dial" Vacheron & Constantin à Genève, No. 179008, and Ferdinand Verger, Paris. Made circa 1895. Extremely fine, unique and elegant, early, 18K gold, platinum, pietra dura "incrustation" lapis lazuli, bloodstone, white chalcedony dial, rose-cut diamond and ruby-set lady's wristwatch with moiré silk strap and 18K gold clasp.

CHF 22,000 - 28,000

EUR 14,000 - 18,000 / USD 18,000 - 23,000

Sold: CHF 25,960

C. Three-body, polished back, the bezel and crown set with rosecut diamonds, the band set with rubies, wire lugs. D. Mosaic inlaid pietra dura decoration of bloodstone, white chalcedony and lapis lazuli within gold framework, gothic Arabic chapters on white agate circular cartouches, outer minute ring made of 60 pieces of lapis lazuli. Gold and rose-cut diamond-set ?fleur-de-lys" hands. M. 22 mm.(9 3/4???), gilt brass bar caliber, 15 jewels, cylinder escapement, three-arm gilt balance, blued-steel flat balance spring, index regulator. Movement numbered. Diam. 28 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 2-01

Very good

HANDS Original

Notes

The present watch is one of a very special and rare type that derives its inspiration from a watch made by Breguet for Prince Demidoff (sold by Antiquorum, Geneva, March 31, 2001, lot 77). That watch dated from the early 19th century and its case was described in the register as a 'boite à incrustations'. These dials were apparently made only on special order and are found on only one or two watches dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This type of dial was extremely expensive to make, sometimes costing more than an entire watch with no decoration. Watches with pietra dura cases and dials were made in the later 19th century and early 20th century by both the House of Breguet and the firm of Le Roy. The movement of the present watch was delivered in 1894 by Vacheron & Constantin to Parisian jeweler Ferdinand Verger, along with five other movements. Vacheron & Constantin and Verger often collaborated in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.